01.06.09
Emma White-Turle - Hair and Make-Up Artist
The right advice and inside track on how to get commissioned
How did you begin to work as a hair and make up artist ?
When I made the decision to work as a full time artist, I put together a look book of images that I found inspirational and then researched some photographers that were looking to test. This enabled me to put together a portfolio that I was proud of and could use to get paid work. I had been working in the industry, in various guises, since I was 14 though, and was lucky to have a wonderful collection of contacts I could use for advice and help.
How do you get work, is it mainly through an agent?
Joy Goodman is my agent and the majority of my work does come through her. I do get approached by photographers and stylists directly as well and we co- ordinate the shoots in conjunction with her.
What kind of work are you involved in?
I'm lucky to have a fairly varied career, combining fashion editorial and beauty, with commercial ads, portraits, and also some tv work.
How important do you feel your relationship with the photographer is when on a shoot?
It is a very important relationship, but everyone involved in a shoot should be a collective part of the creative process.
Do you feel that your role has changed since the escalated use of photoshop by most photographers?
Yes, in some ways. It is incredibly useful in that blemishes and shadows can be easily corrected digitally. But it seems there are some photographers that don't see the make-up as being so important any more. There are some that, apparently, see make-up as something that can be easily changed by photoshop. It would be very disappointing to see a final image that basically has been altered so much, that it isn't your work any more. And the image never looks "real".
What sort of comments do photographers commonly make that really annoy you?
I don't think there are any comments that annoy me, as all the photographers I've worked with over the years seem to be pretty unique! I think not being dismissive would be quite high on my list of don'ts.
How should photographers work with you to get the best results from you?
Communicate about the ideas behind the story we are looking to shoot, work as a team with stylists, hair and make up artists, and listen to everyone's ideas of how to achieve it.
How long is reasonable for a standard hair and make up take for a fashion shoot and a portrait shoot?
I would allow two hours for a fashion story, and maybe only an hour and a half for a portrait. This can vary hugely depending on the model and the looks required, but those would be a good guideline.
What advice would you give a photographer when working with celebrities?
Celebrities are on the whole very busy and having to work to tight schedules so, I think just be prepared, as you don't always have a huge amount of time to get the shot you need.
You're always very positive on a shoot, do you think that this is a key factor to your success along with your creative abilities?
Well, possibly, yes. We are all working together as a team and being positive does make everyone relax and the shoot run smoothly. But also have have to make our subject or model feel confident about themselves, which enables us to get the shot we need, and a positive energy on the day does seem to help this.
Finally could you give us some advice to pass on to a photographer who is just starting out?
Test, test, test... and build up a portfolio of varied stories.
Also, working with lots of different people in the beginning helps you gain an idea of how you are going to run your shoots and what you require of people. You also meet artists and stylists that you form a working bond with, and who are starting out like you, and this bond can last a lifetime. I am still shooting with photographers that I met whilst testing.
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